Goodyear Welt a unique shoe collection made by “Nico Nerini” for the best of you!
Are you wondering how we make these beautiful Goodyear Welt Collections? read below!
Selection of leather – To make Goodyear Welted shoes we recommend calf leather which will be much softer than the soles, but they are pressed to a uniform thickness.
Preparation of upper leather – As we “Nico Nerini” is very specific in a selection of leather to make Goodyear welted shoes, we prefer the finest skilled craftsman in our team to cut these leather. Our finest craftsman will cut these leather using rigid metal shapes which are developed by our pattern designer. In order to keep the waste of leather at a minimum, our finest craftsman will start the with the tie, vamp, quarter and tongue and then the brogues are punched into them. The edges of the leather uppers are shaved in order to prevent the thick layer where they overlap or fold. To reinforce the uppers, a piece of flannel (called the doubler) is glued to the leather upper from the inside, before the tip is stitched to the vamp. Later, the completed lining will be stitched to quarters, the eyelets are applied from inside. Finally, the vamp and the quarters are stitched together all these work resulting in finished upper!
Preparation of sole – To make the best sole for our Goodyear Welt Collection, Nico Nerini believes that NO STEP is more important than picking of the best leather that can be bought. The “Bend” is the best part of the hide and it’ll be used for the outer sole of the shoes. A machine shaves the outer sole to uniform thickness and stamps the size and thickness of each sole, again these will be looked over for the slightest imperfection. Innersoles are rounded to the same shape as the bottom of the last.
Shoe assembled – The uppers are now pulled over the last and tacked to it. Of course, our Nico Nerini craftsman will double check that the upper is pulled on straight. Now, the canvas lip band of the sole is stitched to the uppers, except for the heel area. The front part of the upper leather is tacked for temporary. The upper edges are trimmed and the Goodyear welt will be stitched to the upper leather through the lip of the sole. Now, the wooden shank is added for stability before the cork is put into the space between inner and outsole as filling, The same will be done to provide cushioning for the foot. The outsole is cemented to the rest of shoe under high pressure and subsequently, the sole is shaped to fit the rest of the shoe. To ensure that the outsole stays properly attached, it’ll be stitched through the welt with two needles these carry two threads which come from the top, bottom and cross to form a loop in the middle. Now the soles are mould to the shoe and the leather heel is nailed to it. Now the sole can receive its final trimming, which requires some skill to do, so we Nico Nerini use our finest craftsman to do this. The shoe may look complete but the finishing operation remains to be done.
Shoe finished? – Hot Vibrating irons pound the edge of the sole, giving it a hard, rounded, smooth and polished surface. The soles will be polished with wax, uppers and welt will be cleaned and polished. Now it’s time to take the last out of the shoe! Yes, we Nico Nerini have a quality controller who cross-checks the shoes in every part and angle so we “Nico Nerini” make sure that the shoes which leave the factory must not have any defect.
The best of Nico Nerini!
To buy our Goodyear Welt shoes: